The foreward half of the stbd side with oakum driven in and seam compound on the seams below the waterline. Above the waterline the seams are filled with Life-Caulk which seals but can also be sanded and varnished.
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The first coat of varnish, thinned with mineral spirits, is applied above the waterline. Waterline is taped out. I found the waterline with a "water level", more on this later. One more coat of varnish will be added to this side, then the remaining 5 or 6 coats will be done in the spring. This is realy a "sealer coat" for the winter.
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The rudder, about 300 lbs. about to be scraped.
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The first coat of bottom paint. I am using Mircon CSC by Interlux. Im not sure of the color yet, let's see how it looks after a while. The waterline was put on using a simple clear plastic hose. One end was lined up with a point on the stem where it should be, then the waterline was walked and marked about every 4 inches. I then used a nail set to punch marks where it is. therefore, it is a "water level".
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The forepeak and vberth area after scraping and painting. This tedious job is a must in order to see th econdition of all frames and planks from the inside. After launching, this will show where any relative motion takes place between structural members. It also will show where water may be intruding. (paint the overhead too!) I may replace the 3rd floor from the bow. When they installed a pvc watertank, they punched an oversize hole for the water lines. Not good!
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The rudder, after sanding, scraping, and filling all of the cracks with resin. One coat of varnish above the waterline, one coat of CSC below. This an "overhang" rudder, meaning it hangs on the transom and keel rather than coming thru the hull. Note the propellor aperture (cutout for the prop).
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One sad result of someone "fiberglassing" the cockpit sole: total rot of the sole and supporting stringers. I have reomved most of the rotted members and I will rebuild the entire structure. Never fiberglass over wood! They are not compatible. If you do (such as the cabin roof on this boat) keep an eye on it for any signs of water leakage. Under the sole it was impossible to see any damage and this is the result.
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The masthead. The fittings are superb quality and in excellent shape. I will remove all parts on th emast and take it down to bare wood. There are some dark areas under the varnish which make me nervous. Let's hope for the best! Dark spots are an indication of mold, which, of course, means rot! Spruce is no where near as resistant to rot as teak.
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The mast secrion at about the cabit top. Note the teak cleats. All of the shourds are in excellent shape so they will be usable. All lines, of course, will need to be replaced.
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